Day 11: Durban and flight home

So, for me, Enduro Africa is over. I'm now in the Durban airport about to leave for Joburg. I had a fantastic time and learned to become a much more proficient offroad rider. I'm sore, but otherwise unscathed. With help from my generous sponsors, I expect to turn over $10k in donations when everything's said and done. Thanks to the many recent new donations, which will go to the four amazing charities providing HIV prevention, education, and support in Southern Africa.

Along the way, I got to meet incredible people - fellow riders and South Africans alike. Foremost among the former were members of Team Orange, whose sense of humor, advice, and assistance helped me to enjoy the ride even more. And many thanks to my team leaders, who patiently educated us about the country, its people, and wildlife. They never failed to step into the breach and fix a tire, adjust a bike component, or pull us out of a ravine.


I'll miss the short stories by South African writers they read to us on our longer breaks. My only hope for them is that they practice their proficiency with their GPS devices, although the downtime needed to locate ourselves did offer us more chances to take pictures!

Later today, I'll head home to my family, rewarding job, and affluent life, at least by national and global standards. It is not lost on me that I pulled a winning ticket in the lottery that gave me American citizenship and the incredible opportunities that middle-class life there affords. Time will tell how I convert this experience into something tangible. 


But I'm determined that this will be the end of a chapter and the start of something new. Not more adventure tourism, mind you, but something that has an even greater impact on the lives of the global poor than the HIV prevention science that I've devoted my life to thus far.

And soon, dear readers, I'll shut down this blog. But not before I backfill these rider accounts with pictures and links, and add a bit more content aimed at future riders (e.g., 5 top things to pack - and leave behind) and follow-up with the winners of my recent poll (How many falls will Andrew take?). I'll leave the blog up for a year, in case future riders are curious about what they may face.

I'm tremendously grateful to all who made this possible, including those friends, family, and new friends who donated, or sent encouraging notes, comments, and questions as the trip progressed.

For those on the next leg back to PE, I have only this to say: We thrashed your bikes. Nothing personal. We really thrashed them. Enjoy your ride, be safe, and be sure to take in as much of the country as you can. You'll miss the best parts if you focus only on the ride.

Photo credits: Andrew Forsyth, Mike Taylor, Andrew Forsyth

Day 10: Mbotyi to Port Edward

We departed at 7:45 AM Sunday in light rain and with dark clouds overhead. The final push was to be a 200-km run toward Durban, with a few technical sections thrown in for good measure.


We immediately encountered more of the slippery goop that did me in the day before. But I'd learned overnight that it had also caught Red Cherry Adventure's Mike Glover offguard. The seasoned, ex-champion enduro racer was said to have broken toes in the tumble. The slop would claim scores of others before the day was out.


After staying in several 1 - 2 star venues along the route - including one that took the area's name, "Hole in the Wall," as a quality benchmark to strive for - Enduro Africa riders dismounted Saturday night at the spectacular Mbotyi River Lodge, with it's manicured lawns, lighted palm trees, and fantastic food.


One of the part owners was a kind middle-aged woman with a warm smile who recounted her years working in HIV prevention in the region. She even made an invited visit to the Bush Whitehouse for her work on the Mothers2Mothers project. Hands down, the lodge was the nicest, friendliest place we would stay on the trip. It didn't hurt that it also was home to a pleasant pitbull mix that made the rounds to ensure that guests were sorted. Visit, if you have the chance.


We made our way into the hills and up through the low hanging clouds. We came across large, shoddy schools and pristine police compounds in seemingly deserted mountain communities. From the saddle, the contrasts suggested a ranking of funding priorities out of step with the need.


The once familiar goat paths and open fields were now soaked and had turned rather formidable. This was particularly true as we slid our way down a steep decline to a shallow stream crossing. By turning the ignition off, we used the clutch to work first gear to control the rotational speed of the rear tire. Pull the clutch in and the tire rolls; let it out and it eventually locks up.


This strategy, when combined with careful control of the front brake, freed our feet to stabilize the bikes in the slippery muck. I dropped and lifted the 300-lb bike a dozen times (but rarely fell myself). All of this exacted quite a toll: Dressed in full protective gear and a rain jacket, I sweated more profusely than at any time in my life.


The entire group of ~80 riders eventually made its way out of the valley with the help of a narrow, gravel road. Miles later, we stopped to regroup by the roadside and immediately drew a small band of 4 - 8 year old boys, barefoot, and dressed in ripped clothing. Some played with tops in the dirt and debris. Two smaller boys deftly climbed a fence wrapped in rusted barbed wire for a better view of the bikes. One of them, with big eyes and quick to giggle, goofed with me as we made each other laugh by the roadside.

Only one of their lot spoke a few words of English. I pleaded with him to work hard in school and to study. He translated. I pointed to a few and asked "Mandela? Mandela?" in the only way I could think to suggest that they -- like their former President before them, who arose from very humble roots - could have a bright future and contribute meaningfully to their country. Admittedly, it was a long shot and a weak effort. Still, they shook my hand excitedly as I left, seeming to appreciate the impromptu mentoring even more than the chicklets others had given them. I shook the hand of the little boy with the bright eyes twice, just for good measure.


The rest of the ride was unremarkable. We eventually made our way to the camp grounds that would serve as our final base. We dismounted the mud-caked bikes and were greeted by a traditional Zulu dance performance. Had I not destroyed my camera during my last fall, I'd have taken pictures. We checked in, cleaned up for dinner, and began to get organized for our flights home or onward.


As the evening events started, I finally identified the slow, burning tension that had come to a head. Enduro Africa had attempted to strike a fine balance from the beginning between two competing factions. On the one hand, the event is an out-and-out testosterone-fest, complete with the drunken hooligans among us wreaking havoc at all hours. And on the other hand, the place is crawling with more pensive people genuinely interested in the speeches on opening night by representatives from the event's selected charities. I wanted the group to end on a similar highpoint as that first night, one that emphasized less the ride and more the remarkable charitable work that we'd make possible.


But tonight, the testosterone faction was clearly in control. The closing ceremonies thanking all involved ended with an Enduro Africa tradition: Two of the bikes were ridden by team leaders who, stripped to their skivvies, circled the pool several times before plunging them into the water.


The goal was to see who could get the water cleared and the bikes restarted and running faster - the team leaders, or the extraordinary mechanics who had kept us all going. It took all of 3 minutes for the first team to remove the water, reinstall the spark plug, and ride the dripping bike out to the parking lot. In a surprising upset, the team leaders beat the ride mechanics to restart their bike. 


But the outcome said less about the competitors than it did about the hardiness of these incredible Honda CRF230Ls. I didn't envy the camping grounds staff, who would have a sandy pool floor and a fuel slick to contend with in the morning. 


Photo credits: Mbotyi River Lodge, Andrew Forsyth, Mike Taylor

Top 5 things to pack (and leave behind)

Here are some reflections on the things to pack and leave behind for Enduro Africa. Aside from the essentials recommended by the organizers, my top 5 things to bring include:

1. Power adapter. Those of you who have traveled internationally know to bring a power adapter. But some will be surprised to find that there's a 3-pronged plug for South Africa, one that is shared with a few other former UK-colonies (incl. India, Hong Kong, etc.). The two-pronged outlets common in the UK are few and far between outside of the larger cities. Not to worry: Every grocery and hardware store I visited had the adapters for ~ZAR9 - 10. 
2. Layers. Those who have been to South Africa in the Spring will know that the temperatures vary considerably during the day. Bring a breathable, waterproof shell and avoid any riding gear made of cotton - unless you enjoy wearing sweaty clothes. Quick drying synthetic shorts and tees as base layers are highly recommended. 
3. Digital camera. It should go without saying but bring the gadgets you need to keep your camera up and running (power, memory, etc). South Africa is phenomenally beautiful and you'll want to be ready to show them to people back at home. In a single day, we saw whales breaching, amazing birds, monkeys, impressive trees and plants, and a remarkable cityscape. And that's not counting the game park you'll visit.
4. Ibuprophen. Even if you don't hit the deck, you'll end each day feeling every muscle in your arms, shoulders, neck, and legs. A little dab of ibuprophen, for me, was just the ticket.
5. Large volume hydration backpack. Take your choice. There are many good brands out there. But just make sure that you have the capacity to carry 3.0 litres of fluids and have room for waterproofs, energy bars, chocolate, and camera gear. I brought a back-up 2.0 litre bladder - and I used it regularly in addition to my main one!

Runners-up: Gatorade, moleskin, instant coffee (Starbucks!), lens wipes, antibiotic cream, hand sanitizer, a bottle of red South African wine, and your bank's number or email (so you can notify them YET AGAIN that you're really in ZA and to unlock your account).

Things to leave 

Were I to do Enduro Africa again, here are the things I'd leave behind: 

1. Half of everything. Sure, go ahead. Pack everything you think you'll need. And then divide by 2. Maybe 3. Seriously, all of those tee shirts and pants? Leave them. You'll have plenty of chances to hand wash and dry any essentials. Socks are the only exception: Bring an extra pair. My gear bag's check-in weight was 16 kg (Limit = 20 kg) and I still brought more clothes than needed.
2. Delicate electronics. I only brought a blackberry and small camera and was grateful to have even one of those functional when I left. I wouldn't take a computer, large lens SLR camera, etc., although others did. In addition to falls and river crossings, theft is still an issue in some places. 
3. Second+ level aid kits. I wondered about the need for first aid gear on the trip. In truth, most could get by with basic/level 1 first aid kits because riders are followed like Joe Biden by ambulances and mechanics. Ride leaders have aid kits and tools too. 
4. Tons of cash. I was surprised by how little money I actually needed, most of which I pulled out of an ATM in the Joburg airport and in Port Elizabeth. Aside from the ZAR1500 we gave to ride leaders for lunches, gas, and game park fees (a sizeable amount of which we got back at the end), I made it through the week on another ZAR1000 or so. Mind you, I wasn't up all hours buying and downing rounds with friends. So, plan accordingly. At the time, the USD:ZAR exchange rate was 1:7.5 or so.
5. Your ego. Seriously. Go and have fun. Enduro Africa is not a race, and there will inevitably be far better riders around than you. Just chill, have a look around, get to know your fellow riders, take in the country (its views, history, cultures), and meet as many locals as you can. You'll enjoy the experience that much more. 

So there you have it. My list of packing essentials, some of which overlap with EA's own recommendations. Anything I missed?